The Jewel On Indian Ocean

The beautiful month of February. It was nice weather on Indian ocean when I was accompanying 5 Hongkong tourists. We drove to the east passing through Berastagi and Tiga Panah and the surrounding area along the edge of Bukit Barisan. We enjoyed the cool climate of highlands before being baked by the hot temperature from the east coast of Sumatera.

We drove quite relax and stopped for fruits shopping at Tiga Panah, finally we reachedSingkil after 7 hours drive. Normally, it took 4 hours to Singkil from Medan. The guests were enjoying the trip and they loved panorama of the tropics and surroundings.

Pulau Banyak is our destination, an island under the administration of Singkil Regency, Naggroe Aceh Darussalam. From here, you can get ferry service to Pulau Banyak. To reach Singkil from Medan, you can take public transport L300 with 11 passengers, or you may charter it privately. The roads is up and down and manycurves but relatively good.

There are two ways to reach Singkil from Pulau Banyak. The first ferry service operates 2 times a week; Saturday and Monday at 11 am. It cots Rp 15.000 per person. It takes 4 hours departs from Port of Pulau Sarok.

The other choice is to go by boat with capacity of 30 passengers . This boat operates 3 times a week; Tuesday, Thursday, and Sunday at 09.00 pm, departs from Pasar Ujung Jembatan, Usually, the ferry transport returns to Singkil on the next day. SO you can make your own schedule.

We hired fisherman boat steered by Pak Yasir. It was right that the weather on Indian Ocean was very friendly. The sea was quiet and the wind blowing gently. It was the best time to fish around the island. For information, the best season here is between the month of November and May.

On the month of June until October, storm is quite often. The most dangerous is dry storm. The characteristic of dry storm are hard wind and a large wave without rain. Once the storm comes, the sea wave will last in few months. Under such condition one passengers ship was sunk in the sea between Sibolga and Nias some months ago.

When the storm comes together with the rain, the sea wave last only in a day. Mostly the local captain of the ship have known by experience about the weather in western Sumatera. For safety and comfort, please organize your trip during good weather.

Actually, Pulau Banyak is not only name for one island, but the name given to a cluster of islands. There are 96 tiny islands spreading like mushroom on the sea. Before tsunami disaster 26 December 2004, the total island of Pulau Banyak are 99, but the 3 islands sank.

I got the information that the total population in Pulau Banyak about 6.000 families. Pulau Balai is densely populated, about 3.000 families living on this island. Nevertheless, the largest island is Pulau Haloban with 2.400 families. We stayed overnight on Pulau Balai because the accommodation is only available here, called “Putri”. It is a simple accommodation . It has 2 AC rooms and 7 rooms with fan. Room tariff per night between Rp 30.000 and Rp 85.000.

Unluckily, the communication service is very limited. The only telephone service is available at Pulau Balai and you must que for it. Tower for cellphone network has been built by Telkomsel but so far not operated yet. The local residents hope the network to be operated soon in order the area is free from isolation and as well as a tourism and as well as a tourism supporting facility for this island.

All the five guests, Mr. Matthhew Kwong, Miss JackyChak, Mr. Wong and his wife, also Mr. Liong, were repeatedly saying about the beautyo of Pulau Banyak. Sorry I could not catch all their words fot they spoke in Mandarin mixed up with English. Sometimes we had to use sign language for communication. I knew one of them is a diving instructor.

I realize that Pulau Banyak is absolutely different. The residents are friendly. They liked planting mango trees around the house. Mango trees are found in every house. There are also clove trees planted by some residents at the jungle outskirts. Like any other tropical areas, coconut tree are common view, besides that a large area of the island still covered with virgin jungle.

The islands are surrounded by beautiful beaches with soft sands and very comfortable place for taking a rest. The fishermen here are more prosperous than any other Indonesian fisherman in general. The dwelling houses are better. Some local residents own cars but it is useful due to carrying capacity of the island is limited. Motorbikes and tricycle for carrying goods are commonly used by the people.

Apart from its beautiful panorama, Pulau Balai has something could make your saliva dripping from the mouth. The living resources of the sea resulting in the luxury seafood that I could not say in words. Imagine, a big crab weighs between 3 and 6 kg grilled red on fire to be eaten with the typical sauce of coastal area. You must be mad about to see fresh lobsters with best quality, and in large numbers are qualified for export. The big prawns are countless in Quantities, also the variety of the fresh fish are available hardly to say in words.

If you want to enjoy all the sea foods, you can purchase it from the fisherman then ask the cook of the accommodation to prepare it. I ate up some crabs and lobster without rice or some such thing.

All my colleague from Hongkong enjoyed very single time in Pulau Banyak. They did fishing, diving, snorkeling and bathing around the island with full of joy. The boat captain took us to visit some island and fish market. Pulau Banyak could be called the fish storage because almost kinds of fish are available here. But the fish we caught are mostly GT, red grappo, kakap, barakuda and others.

Soon I know why anglers and local fishermen are so easy to catch a plenty of fish. The coral – reefs found under water territory around Pulau Banyak are still in good condition like colorfull garden of paradise. Disturbance by human activity are seldom seen, therefore they are still genuine. Among the coral reefs are the habitat of the fish for breeding freely.

“We have dived in Philipines, Malaysia and other countries, but this place is the most beautiful one. It is really wonderful. I will come here again with my students as many as I can,” Mr. Matthew Kwong said enthusiastically.

They caught a variety big and small fih, I was so impressed that all my guests loved the nature very much. When the rare fish was caught soon they released it and the small fish as well. One time I was trying to pull out a coral and showing it to them, but spontaneously they got angry with me. Even the five Hongkongers did not allow anybody to throw a piece of rubbish away into the sea.

If we find turtle, surely they will forbid me to tease it. Among Pulau Banyak there is an island where the turtles are breeding and used to laying thousands eggs in the sands at certain period. That island is called Pulau Bingkaro. The residents of Pulau Balai and Pulau Haloban who are Nias and Sibolga origin rarely come to this island. It takes two and half hours from Pulau Balai. The local residents saying that the island is “occupied” by foreingners from Holland, British and other Europeans.

Formerly, there were cottages built by foreigners, but all the facilities demolished by the tsunami. Instead of cottages, they stay in the camps. On the month of June and October is the peak season on Pulau Bingkaro. The foreingners whether male or female are undressed to enjoy the sunbathing as they like. They discover a piece of hidden paradise on the middle of the ocean. They live in isolation and “untouchable” because out of reach from the rule of Nanggroe Aceh Darussalam which is very strict and intolerant to their free lifestyle.

Pulau Bingkaro is also known as the habitat of large fish. Supposing that we spent 2 days and 1 night certainly we would like to come there. Unfortunately, our first trip was too short, something like observation. But all the guests from Hongkong have promised to return with a big group someday, of couse with free schedule activity. So what about you? Whey don’t you make a visit to this island?

Auhtor www.hokian.com